How to Spot a Fake Vintage Rolex: A Collector’s Checklist

Buying a vintage Rolex is a serious investment—financially and emotionally. But with values rising and fakes getting more sophisticated, even seasoned collectors can get burned. Whether you're shopping for your first Submariner or adding a rare reference to your rotation, this checklist will help you separate the real from the risky.

1. Examine the Dial Closely

Vintage Rolex dials are where authenticity often reveals itself—or doesn’t. Check for: - Inconsistent printing or spacing - Misaligned hour markers - Wrong fonts (especially in “Oyster Perpetual” or “Superlative Chronometer”) - Lume plots that glow too brightly (vintage tritium should age to a cream, not neon green) Many fakes nail the case, but trip up on the dial.

2. Check the Caseback

Almost all vintage Rolex watches have smooth casebacks without engravings. Exceptions exist (e.g. COMEX, military-issued), but if you see Rolex logos or transparent casebacks—it’s a red flag.

Also check that the caseback opens with the correct tool and threads smoothly.

3. Verify Serial and Reference Numbers

Remove the bracelet and check between the lugs: - At 6 o’clock: Serial number - At 12 o’clock: Reference number These should be deeply engraved and match the production range for the model and year. Use tools like Bob’s Watches or Chrono24 serial charts to confirm.

4. Movement Inspection

If you have access to a watchmaker or trusted dealer, open the caseback and inspect the movement. A real Rolex movement will be: - Swiss-made - Beautifully finished (even under magnification) - Signed “Rolex” with a correct movement number (e.g., 1520, 1570) Frankenwatches often have legitimate cases but generic movements inside.

5. Get a Professional Opinion

If you're even slightly unsure—don’t guess. A trusted dealer, vintage expert, or certified watchmaker can authenticate with certainty. At Second Crown, every piece we sell is fully authenticated and backed by service history, photos, and our guarantee. The fake market is evolving fast—but so are the tools available to collectors. With the right knowledge and a careful eye, spotting a fake vintage Rolex becomes a skill that pays for itself.